Do NOT use that level. The level is out of calibration. If you
cannot reverse the level, the bubble is not within spec. It is
almost impossible for an excellent craftsman with a very good hand
level to close around any room. It won't happen with a level out
of calibration. You are compounding an error.

This is one time to consider a water level (cheap) or to borrow a
laser.


--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Josh" wrote in message
...
As for why I used the steel bars: They were the straightest
objects I
had on hand, plus they already had a lot slots & holes in them
so I
could run a screw through them and into the studs easily.

Anyway, I did as many of you suggested and swapped the ends of
the
level. Sure enough, both bars are off 1/8" one way and dead
level
when the level's ends are rotated. Question is: which is
correct?

I thought I could determine the "accurate" end by checking the
bars'
level with a couple of 24" Craftsman levels I have. One of
shorter
levels showed the same thing the 48" level showed (dead on one
way and
off 1/8" the other) and the other level showed a 1/8" error
each, only
exact opposite depending on which way the level is orienated.

Guess I'll go with the longer level, and be careful to keep it
orientated the same way all the time. Like someone above said,
tile
rows don't have to be laser-precise level.