Ed Huntress wrote:
"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 05:25:26 -0800 (PST), Andrew VK3BFA
wrote:

On Jan 2, 10:32 pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 00:24:59 -0800, Bruce L. Bergman

wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 15:39:45 +1100, "Grumpy"
wrote:
Gunner

Wow - you guys are discussing oils like the wine snobs do - about the
only subtlety you havent touched is if it should be Californian or
French....................g......

Andrew VK3BFA
As long as it was refined right, the appellation on the feed stock
are totally irrelevant.

Though I would take pains to not give Hugo Chavez a single dime if I
can help it. No CITGO or Petrobras.

The guy who insists that you have to be totally authentic and run
vintage correct non-detergent straight 30-weight oil in a vintage
engine... Isn't the guy that has to pay for the rebuild when it fails
after 100 hours runtime instead of the usual 2,000 to 4,000.

Modern oils are a whole lot more slippery than the old stuff, and
protect a lot better even when they are thinner.

Oh, and note that I said *bypass* filter element, they are a whole
different animal made of packed cellulose or cotton fiber in the can -
if you rig a full-flow paper cartridge element up as a bypass filter,
the engine won't have enough oil pressure left to lube the bearings as
it all goes around the bypass and back to the crankcase.

-- Bruce --

This pre-dates the engine in question, but I recall the instructions for
lubricating one of the pioneer cars -- from around 1901 - 1904, IIR, that
Ken Purdy published in one of his classic car books. You were supposed to
melt lamb fat and pour it in the engine, and then start it before the fat
congealed. Then you were to drain it when you stopped the car for the day,
into your melting pot. g

Oil changes were to be conducted every 50 miles.


If I was running that engine, I would ask myself what do I expect from it?
Is it just an engine in a tractor that goes to country shows, and
never do any real work, like pullimg a plough or a set of disks for 8
hrs a day,?
If so then you could use any 20 weight oil as the loading on the engine
is minimal. also if the engine has never been apart ,sinceit was made,
id take off the sump and give it a good wash out and wash out the oil
lift pipe strainer.
#then you would have a better idea having looked inside thec crank case
how much sludge or not was over everything.
If the inside is relatively clean then theres no doubt, a multigrade
detergent oil is a better product than say a 1911 30 weight oil.
Its interesting that Porsche only allow a fully detergent diesel engine
oil in their flat 6 air cooled engines.
Has to be a good reason.
I restored and ran for a no of years a 1908 Renault 4.5ltr 4 cyl
landaulette. I used in that a 20/50 multigrade and it loved it .
Also, my current commercial vehicle a 2 axle rigid has the Rootes
blown 2 stroke Junkers derived commer TS3 3cyl 6 pston installed.
Engine dated 1959, I use a multigrade 20/50 diesel engne oil. and that
has never missed a beat, despite having highly thermal loaded fire rings
on the pistons.
So choose the oil to suit the work done and engine condition.

Ted
Dorset UK.