mcp6453 wrote:
On 12/27/2009 12:27 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
Jules wrote:

... the thing was, the drain valve is a completely stupid design that
just
can't allow larger bits of sediment out - so with it fully open clear
water would come out even if there was a whole pile of sediment in
there.
Looking at new designs, they seem to be no different, so are prone to
gradual build-up in the same way.

This seems to be typical of all water heaters; even the ones that have
good brass-bodied valves use simple stop valves and not ball or gate
valves which would be far preferable. IMHO the one mod that should be
done to every water heater (if there's still time) is to replace the
stock drain valve with a 3/4" threaded ball valve, a dielectric nipple,
and a 3/4 MPT to male garden hose adapter. With a brass cap on it just
for insurance. Otherwise you're wasting your time trying to drain out
sediment (you just won't get enough flow, and the bigger chunks won't
pass) and you run the real risk of having the valve fail open.

nate


Should I try to make this change on a seven year old electric water
heater? I'm concerned that if I do, the old one will break off instead
of unscrew, and I'm replacing the hot water heater.

That's a decision only you can make. I managed to get two out that were
far older (bought a house with old heaters in it) but you may not be so
lucky. You pays your money and takes your chances.

I'd like to find the valve shown in the YouTube video, but this brand
doesn't seem to be around any more.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaVEIkZtXi4


That appears to be exactly what I was describing above, simply packaged
all together. just a 3/4" ball valve. Not that it's not worthwhile, it
doesn't appear any different than what I was able to cobble together
in the plumbing section at my local Big Box. If you like ordering
online, check out waterheaterrescue.com

nate

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