On Wed, 23 Dec 2009 21:19:20 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
scrawled the following:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 14:29:31 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
scrawled the following:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 02:54:45 -0800, the infamous "LDosser"
scrawled the following:
Didn't realize I was anonomyzed - Oregon.

Hello, fellow Webfoot! (LJ, from Grass Pants, OR)

Beaverton!

Way up there. When I moved up from CA,

Say it ain't so! Which wave?

I went from 50 miles north of
the Mexican border to 50 miles north of the California border
(_exactly_ one state), so I'm still a Southerner, I guess.

Nope, not on a wave.

I gave up surfing at the ripe old age of 13, when I took up
skimboarding. Longest nonstop run was ~1.5 miles, the length of the
South Carlsbad State Beach Campgrounds (Palomar Airport Road to
Avenida Encinas.) The beach had a lip on it so 1/4-1/2" of water
stayed on top while the rest of the wave receded. I'd skim 100', kick
it out, run to catch up, and continue on 'til the next inlet stopped
me. I was in great physical shape back then. Indestructible.

I gave up surfing because of a feeling of dread which came over me
while I was out at Swami's (the beach below the Self Realization
Fellowship). Death was stalking me and I took the next wave in on my
stomach, non-stop. IIRC, headlines said that a great white shark was
spotted in the area within the next day or two. (I've always trusted
my intuition.) They're rarely spotted in LoCal, but every decade or
so, they munch someone there.

--
REMEMBER: The sooner you fall behind,
the more time you'll have to catch up!