only wood turners want boxes with "pop" lids - no one else wants them that
way - literally everyone else wants loose fitting lids (not sloppy) that
lift off with one hand. So, the worry about the wood changing shape (which
it does, robohippy is right) is a non-issue if you make the fit that most
want.

"robo hippy" wrote in message
...
I rough turn all of my boxes, no matter how dry the wood is. They all
'adjust' to having the bulk removed. Turn the cylinder, part off the
lid and bottom, rough out the centers (I use my hollowing tools as
they are a lot faster than a forstner bit) leaving about 1/2 inch in
the top or bottom, and maybe 3/8 inch thick walls. I tape the ends
together, and let them adjust for at least a week. Then I will glue
them onto waste blocks. I glued some on once before they had time to
adjust and lost about half of them as the wood shrank, but the glue
and waste block didn't.

robo hippy


On Dec 23, 8:15 am, Bill wrote:
On Dec 21, 5:00 pm, "John Gbur" wrote:

I have a question about rough turning boxes. Does anyone rough turn
boxes
from wood that not completely dry, then turn them again when dry? I am
curious if the tennons need to be returned like bowls or if they are
okay as
is when turning them the second time. Does anybody do this with
dovetail
tennons? I have done a few with the standard tennon but wasn't sure
how
twice turning would work with boxes and dovetail tennons. Hate to find
out
it doesn't work well after doing a lot of them! Thanks!

Someone brought to a woodturning club meeting, a lidded oval birch
box. He had turned the box and lid from very wet wood to as finished
surface as possible. He then let them dry and change from round to
oval shape. As I remember, many of his attempts at this did not work
but enough did to keep him trying. Anyway, by this process he avoided
the remount problem entirely.