On Dec 20, 8:52*am, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Dec 20, 10:29*am, mikec wrote:

On Dec 19, 7:31*am, Robert Nichols
...
:Many of the boring heads use a threaded fitment to the arbor so you
:can't run them in reverse unless you take special precautions to stop
:them coming undone.

It's called "Loctite", works well and releases when heated.
I simply screwed the head on tight. The boring bar will break before
it can apply as much torque as a big wrench

So I bought a solid carbide bit....$56 (OUCH!) Should get here monday
via ups.-

You know, the extra stiffness of solid carbide isn't necessary when
you cut with the end of the bar. A little deflection won't change the
diameter of the hole.

You can regrind the end of a right hand boring bit. The lost shank
clearance generally doesn't matter for the side hole of a boring head.

jsw



It's called "Loctite", works well and releases when heated.
I simply screwed the head on tight. The boring bar will break before
it can apply as much torque as a big wrench

Maybe I'll try this next time.......don't think I want to take a
chance of breaking my $56 bit!


So I bought a solid carbide bit....$56 (OUCH!) Should get here monday
via ups.-


You know, the extra stiffness of solid carbide isn't necessary when
you cut with the end of the bar. A little deflection won't change the
diameter of the hole.

Not very concerned with that tight of tolerances so not worried about
any deflection but I could not locate a carbide tipped bar....any
suggestions as to where I could get one?

You can regrind the end of a right hand boring bit. The lost shank
clearance generally doesn't matter for the side hole of a boring
head.

How would you do this on a carbide tipped bar? I might think about
trying that next.

Thanks
Mike