Oren wrote:
On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 21:13:29 -0800 (PST), hibb
wrote:

On Dec 18, 10:30 pm, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 18 Dec 2009 19:16:23 -0800 (PST), Mikepier



wrote:
On Dec 18, 10:08 pm, hibb wrote:
I just installed a new pre-hung door in the upstairs bedroom
I am remodeling. I've got it in nice and level and square and
it works great.

My trouble is that at the bottom of the door the door jamb
will be just even with the drywall but the top of the jamb is
even with the wall frame. The only thing I can figure is that
I need to take a long piece of 1/2 x 1/2 and cut it into a
long wedge and install it on the door jamb to make the whole
thing about even with the drywall.

Is this the way it is done or is there something easier?

Thanks, David

Obviously your wall is not level. In this situation I would try
and compromise by "splitting the difference" by making your
door and the top frame almost even and at the same time push in
the bottom of the door jamb. Of course that would mean you door
would be off level, or you could shim up the jamb like you
suggested.

Something is "cockeyed". The RO, the door jamb or the wall.

*appearing to be physically or logically abnormal, absurd, etc.

A recent thread mentioned a "string test" to check for plumb..

The wall is part of the old house built in 1910 and now the inside
wall of an upstairs bedroom that was added on around 1948. Looks
like the wall is about a half inch farther into the room at the top
of the door than at the bottom.

I've only installed the door with a few nails and left them so I can
easily pull them back out if I need too. And I haven't installed the
drywall on that wall yet so, if it is what I should do, I could
remove the door and plumb the wall before I continue with the
drywalling.

David

I don't know your proper answer. I have seem "shave and shim" of wall
studs. using a long level (checking plane), power wood planer, the
studs were shaved down a bit - low spots where shimmed with a shim
(dense cardboard) found at various stores. The are thin, 2 inch wide
and 4 foot long. Stapled on the stud.

Shave and shim here is used on tall walls to take out imperfection and
the wall will not show them (as much).

(BTW, posting from Goggle will prevent many posters from seeing your
posts as they filter them out, due to spam.)

Agreed, this is the way to do it, although your wall may need something much
thicker than cardboard. If you have scraps of various thicknesses of plywood
you could use them to build up a level surface and if you have a table saw
you could cut some various thicknesses of shims or even a long tapered
shim -- I have just done a combination of both methods on a wall that was
not perfectly plumb.