"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "LDosser"
wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "LDosser"
wrote:

I had several with the 225 slant six and one with the 318. Did most of
my
own work on them and all tune ups. Only thing I didn't like was setting
the
points on the slant six (exhaust header burns on fore arm)

That'd be a pretty neat trick, considering that the distributor on a
slant-six
is half-way down the block on the passenger side, and the exhaust
manifold is
all the way at the top of the engine on the driver's side. You'd think
that
someone who'd done all that work on a slant-six would know where the
distributor is.

Long arms. They say memory is the first to go ... Anyone know what the
hell
I was burning myself on?

Valve cover, maybe... ? I finally figured out that the easiest way, _by
far_,
to change points on those engines was to take careful note of the position
of
the rotor, then pull the distributor out and lay it on the workbench. Made
it
real easy to set the gap right on spec with feeler gauges. Discovered that
entirely by accident one evening, when I dropped that damn tiny little
screw
*into* the distributor, and *had* to pull it to retrieve the screw.
Figured as
long as I had it out, I might as well put the new points in before
reinstalling it.... damn, that was easy... gotta remember that for next
time!


Pressed send too soon. Wish I'd thought of that!

Part of my problem was I never tuned to spec. I started there and adjusted
for 'feel'. Was a difficult engine to do that on.