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Bill
 
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Default Oak end table drawer - wooden slides and M&T questions (Long) Repost due to crazy ISP/net problem

Dave,

I have made several tables for the house, all with M&T and had no
problems. I use a dedicated M&T, and thru trail and error learned a
system that works for me. Fist make up your leg blanks. DO NOT taper
the legs yet. Pick your best looking leg sides to face front and mark
the legs. Layout the mortises on the legs and measure twice.

Cut your mortises an eighth deeper than needed. Clean up with the
widest chisel you can.

I cut my tenons on the table saw. I cut the thickness first on a scrap
until I get a tight fit. I lay the boards flat on the table, standing
the boards up is awkward for me. Clean up the boards with a rasp,
gently now. Final fitting with a palm sander, again gently. I go for a
snug fit. Not loosey goosey, not so tight you have to hammer the tenon
in with more than gentle tapping with a rubber mallet.

Try it with some scrap and it will build up your confidence. I built
my workbench first with M&T and the thing is solid as a rock. I built
it out of 2x4s with a 2x table top covered with a sheet of particle
board which is disposable with use.

Bill

Bay Area Dave wrote in message .com...

3) I think I'm going to finally make mortise and tenons. (MAJOR
CRINGING! I have the mortising attachment for the DP, which should work
in oak, I hope.) Mortise first, and then make the tenon fit it,
correct? What level of smoothness does a decent M&T have to have for a
long lasting joint? I can't imagine that the mortising attachment is
gonna leave the walls of the mortise all that smooth. I've only gone
general purpose chisel for now. Do I just got at it with sandpaper or
do I need to buy more tools (aaargh! I can't get something new every week!)