"Bill" wrote in message
...

It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
than 1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other
day without one, which I ended up doing twice. So, tonight I went
searching online for a level.

With pictures I have found that typically what a level indicates may not be
what your eyes perceive as level. Basically other objects near the picture
or a curved archway may in fact make a level picture look unlevel. I always
depend on my eyes to make a picture look level.


I assume that levels with magnets stick to the studs in
walls (is that correct?).

Probably not correct, they "might" stick to steel studs that are in some
more modern homes but mostly to stick to iron work. The magnets may in fact
distort the level if most of the area you are working is non-ferrous and you
have an odd object that the level is attracted to. I doubt that magnets on
a level will pull through sheet rock.

That said, there are "Gecko" spelling? levels by B&D IIRC. They have a
super surface that will almost stick to a vertical wall. Not totally unlike
the material used on the guide rails on the new style circular saws that
require no clamps to stay in place.


Any other uses for a "magnetic level"? I'm
focusing now on the 24" size.

Are you working with steel pipe or steel beams?



Stanley makes several, basic version from
about $16 up to a FatMax Extreme version which is supposed to be 5x as
strong and accurate to .0005"/inch. for about $35.


Do you think you can see the tilt in a picture that is only .1 degrees out
of level?


I would anticipate also
using the level to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a homemade workbench
on a concrete floor with several cracks (hench not level). I know that
the workbench and vise should be level!

Nothing in my shop, 7' long TS, drill press, planer, router table work
bench, drum sander, lathe, band saw, etc is level nor do any of them need to
be level. Why would you need for them to be level?


I expect that a Starrett combination
square that I expect to have by then will be helpful too in this
regard--at least I should be able to see to it that the top of the bench
and the top of the vise are coplanar. So based on the installations I
have suggested above, what else do you think I need to know about
selecting a level?

The longer the level, the more accurate the results. The shorter levels are
good for ball park settings but for larger objects like cabinets or doors yo
want longer. Irregular surfaces on what you are trying to make level or
plumb have less adverse results when using a longer level.


Reliability is important, of course. I read somewhere that those with
"caps" on the ends (which may include the ones I mentioned) have the
potential to be less reliable.

Reliability is important, if the level is calibrated correctly to begin with
and you don't drop it very much there is not much that can go wrong with a
liquid in a tube.