1) Every drawer I've made I've used full extension slides. Now I want
to make an end table with a single drawer; all wood. If I have oak on
hand, do I make a single center runner (and btw, HOW?? ) or do you
use two runners, or runners on the side, from oak? I also have maple,
but the table will be oak. In other words, how do YOU make a drawer
slide with all wood components?

This is going to be a country styled oak end table with a drawer near
the top, and I'm leaning towards, but not committed to, a full width
shelf near the floor. Thinking about tapered legs, which I suppose I'd
have to start by gluing up 5/4 or 6/4 material to make the legs thick
enough. At what point do you make hollow legs (not that I'd imagine
that would be the case for the size I'm gonna make)?

2) I saw a picture of fluted legs that are taped only near the floor,
starting about six inches up. The flutes taper off to a point, like I
had asked about a while back. Still can't quite envision how to bring
the flute to a sharp point while routing it. If I use a router table to
flute, do I just practice at lifting the leg up near the end of the cut,
and set a reference mark, so that all 3 flutes have the same ending
contour. Seems like that would be hard to pull off with uniformity, so
I'm expecting someone has a better way.

3) I think I'm going to finally make mortise and tenons. (MAJOR
CRINGING! I have the mortising attachment for the DP, which should work
in oak, I hope.) Mortise first, and then make the tenon fit it,
correct? What level of smoothness does a decent M&T have to have for a
long lasting joint? I can't imagine that the mortising attachment is
gonna leave the walls of the mortise all that smooth. I've only gone
general purpose chisel for now. Do I just got at it with sandpaper or
do I need to buy more tools (aaargh! I can't get something new every week!)

I don't have a tenoning attachment for the TS, but could rig up
something, albeit kludgy to run a board thru vertically. Is using a BS
not a good way to do it? I have one blade that gives a reasonably
smooth cut; a 3/16 Pro olsen 10 TPI, raker set. Should I just use the
TS for ALL the tenon cuts? I'm expecting that if it's all done on the
TS, I won't need to smooth the surface, but to make a tiny adjustment,
do you sand or what? My new smoother is the only plane I've got. Or
would I be better off milling this on the router table, using a 1/2
straight double flute bit. I could make precise depth changes to the
bit for a very precise fit. Would you use or TS or router?

Please tell me I can accomplish these tasks without buying more stuff!
Eventually I'll get a bunch of chisels, and perhaps a tenon jig for
the TS. But for now, is this doable with a BS, TS, router table, and no
Neander tools but one basic chisel and a smoother.

How do you set up a router to do a deep, carefully positioned mortise,
without buying the Leigh jig, or other expensive jig? Like I said, I
have a router table, but I also have a 2 1/4 HP handheld router.


dave