On Dec 11, 9:49*am, Hoosierpopi wrote:
On Dec 9, 1:36*pm, " wrote:

On Dec 9, 11:26*am, Hoosierpopi wrote:

Thank you. My sub-panel is in a barn 80 feet from the house panel. I
ran a solid copper (#8?) to the ground stake just outside where the
sub is mounted. The connection runs under ground (in HDPE pipe) along
with a 10Bast-T and a Coax.

That's a different situation. It's not just a sub panel.

On the suggestion (elsewhere): "Why not just take out the short 2 wire
cord and throw it away, and simply attach the long 3 wire to the saw?
"

I would say one needs to watch out that the longer "extension" cord is
of a suitable gauge as many tools come with a minimum gauge "pigtail"
which is "OK" if plugged directly into a suitable (amp-wise) outlet,
but not if run through one of those 16 gauge extension cords -
espeacially when they are twenty-five feet and more.

Well, ya. Cords must be rated for the current drawn. 16ga is good
for 13A, IIRC. I think the only 16GA extension cords I own are used
only for lights. For (hand) saws I use only 12GA, even only 25'.

If you do re-wire with a longer cord, use at least 10 Gauge wire with
a ground (IMHO) to get the most power out of your tool. I use 20AMP
cords if "extending" to a Table Saw and the like. I've noticed severe
slowing down/loss of power when using lighter cords and the cord (esp
at plug end) get nice and toasty.

12GA is fine. It's no different than the wiring in the house. A foot
of 12GA in the wall is the same as a foot of extension. Yes, if the
total run is too long, half of it in 10GA will help. I replaced the
cord on my Unisaw with 15' of 12-3 SJ. There's probably 50' of 12-2 w/
G going back to the sub-panel from the wall. Changing the 15' from
12ga to 10ga isn't going to change anything. The saw starts with
authority now. ;-)