On Dec 9, 1:36*pm, " wrote:
On Dec 9, 11:26*am, Hoosierpopi wrote:


Thank you. My sub-panel is in a barn 80 feet from the house panel. I
ran a solid copper (#8?) to the ground stake just outside where the
sub is mounted. The connection runs under ground (in HDPE pipe) along
with a 10Bast-T and a Coax.

On the suggestion (elsewhere): "Why not just take out the short 2 wire
cord and throw it away, and simply attach the long 3 wire to the saw?
"

I would say one needs to watch out that the longer "extension" cord is
of a suitable gauge as many tools come with a minimum gauge "pigtail"
which is "OK" if plugged directly into a suitable (amp-wise) outlet,
but not if run through one of those 16 gauge extension cords -
espeacially when they are twenty-five feet and more.

If you do re-wire with a longer cord, use at least 10 Gauge wire with
a ground (IMHO) to get the most power out of your tool. I use 20AMP
cords if "extending" to a Table Saw and the like. I've noticed severe
slowing down/loss of power when using lighter cords and the cord (esp
at plug end) get nice and toasty.





On Dec 8, 2:28*am, sibosop wrote:

I realize this isn't exactly a woodworking question, but when I asked
about 220 V wiring for my shed in an earlier thread a lot of
electricians came out of the 'woodwork'.

So. I now have 220 V in my shed for my Walker Turner table saw. I
noticed that the plug from the saw only has two wires. The ground is
not connected. *My shed has a ground stake.
Should I run the ground wire to the saw? It certainly has a whooping
iron chasis.
Should I not do this?

(For those of you who helped me the last time, I finally decided to
get an electrician to wire it. He took the 220V
line from my 30 amp circuit for the house drier (I have a gas drier,
so I don't use it), ran #10 wires out to a 30 amp
breaker panel in the shed, split out two 110V circuits and a 20 amp
220v and put in a ground stake. This took him
6 hours. It would have taken me about 2 months).

thanks,
b

My 220 consists of three leades, two "hot" and one "neutral" but the
newest setups (for household appliances 0 like a dryer) include a
separate equipment ground and use a four-conductor plug.

If you only have three leads, one is a ground not a neutral. *Often,
like older driers and range installations the ground is used as a
neutral, but as you note, this is no longer allowed. *Circuits like
air conditioners (and saws) that don't need a neutral can still use
three wire circuits but the third wire is a ground, not a neutral (it
carries no current). *Equipment grounds have been required for at
least fifty years.

As I understand it, a short in your saw could conceivably employ you
as the ground (wet shoes, damp floor and a short to the frame).

Which is why the equipment ground is a requirement. *There would be no
neutral current so a neutral conductor is not required.

I may be wrong, but I wire my 220VAC equipment with all four
conductors and do have a ground stake for the shop power distribution
box (about a 100 feet from the mains I ran it from at the house).

The *only* place neutral and ground may be (and must be) connected is
at the entrance panel. *Neutral and ground must be separated
everywhere else. *If your sub panel is separate from your entrance
panel it shouldn't have a separate ground stake, though perhaps it's
OK if a *large* enough ground wire connects the two. *I'm not sure
about this detail because it's easier to not have the ground stake at
the sub. *If there is a nearby lightning strike you want the house to
"ride the wave" (one ground point) not invite the current through your
house (two grounds).