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Joseph Gwinn Joseph Gwinn is offline
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Default Decimal to Fraction Conversion - and Letter- and Number drill bits

In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2009-12-03, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2009-12-02, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2009-12-01, Joseph Gwinn wrote:

[snip snip]


The difference is that the old indexes had a solid rectangular bar at
the top (with precise size holes all in a row) spotwelded to the
swinging sheetmetal layers, while in the new boxes the solid metal bar
is gone, replaced by a punched and bent over end on the sheetmetal
layer. For one thing, there is no easy way to catch a layer and pull it
up, and of course the holes are not nearly as accurate. And the hinges
upon which the layers swing don't work as well either.


Hmm ... none of mine (with the possible exception of the MT-3
set) has that. The earlier ones have the top end folded twice to make a
plate for the holes and a reinforcing ridge, and a bit down the hinged
plated is another 'L' spot welded on to make the second set of holes.
The newer ones have the second set folded out of the hinged piece, but
still pretty well punched and aligned. Some of those later ones have a
black plastic overlay with the sizes and numbers (and the metric ones
have decimal inch sizes in addition to the mm diameter). The index for
the screw machine length has another tab folded out to support the
shorter bits.


I've seen these variations as well. I really don't want any plastic in
a drill index - the plastic soon crumbles away.


The only HUOT index which I find awkward to use is the really
old one for 3/4" to 1" bits with MT-3 shanks (a nice fit for the lathe,
but *really* heavy. :-)


Never met an index for MT drills, but never needed one either.


Obviously, the point end goes in first, and the MT shanks stay
at the outside end. But the weight of the plates loaded with bits
(especially the ones from 1" down to perhaps 7/8") is great enough so a
bump will pop one end or the other of the hinge pin out of the dimpled
hole which serves as a bearing. And this is probably the oldest one
that I have, painted OD. So every once in a while, I have to tilt
things until the hinge pin pops back in. (And sometimes I first have to
drive out and straighten the hinge pins. :-)


I've had pop-outs as well, but without the excuse of great weight.
Perhaps the hinge pin needs to be made of sterner stuff?


Of course, I also have a zinc die-cast index (stand) from GTD
(Greenfield Tap and Die) for fractional bits near the tailstock of my
lathe. That is pretty convenient for most things, with a small
number-size index of screw machine length drills of cobalt steel with
split points which are so nice that I use them whenever possible. (They
are also in a HUOT index, a bit newer, and it works well too.)


What year were these bought?


When did *I* buy which -- the GT&D stand or the number-sized
index of screw machine length bits?

*I* bought both perhaps ten years ago now, but the GT&D stand
was from eBay, and at a guess it is at least from the mid 1950s if not
later. It is shaped like the GT&D logo, which looks like the profile of
a tap much magnified, putting the drill bits in a zig-zag pattern which
makes them easier to reach -- especially the most common fractional
sizes, which tend to be at the crests of the threads. :-)


So, these are all from the good old days. Drat again.


Joe Gwinn