"dpb" wrote in message
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Zootal wrote:
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As for the windows themselves, if they were mine I'd go back to
traditional glazers' points and glazing instead of the idea of caulk and
the beading.

So I've read up a bit on this process, and if I understand what I've
read, the idea is to set the pane down on a small bead of putty, and use
glazers' points to hold it in place, and put another bead of putty around
it. Let it dry, paint it, and you have a fixed windows. These panes
appear to have used wood trim to hold the glass in place on top of a bead
of putty, yet the old glazers' points were still there. Go figure. I'm
not sure now what the original construction was.

One of the panes had been siliconed into place. I spent quite a bit of
time thinking evil thoughts towards the person that did that, as it is
very tedious to clean it out and difficult not to damage the wood in the
process. The pane had to be removed in pieces, I could see no way to get
it out intact.

So what are the alternatives, and is there a general consensus about how
to set glass panes into a wood frame? I've seen what a mess silicone
makes, and there is no way I'll use silicone to set the glass into place.

That's basically it -- I use a mixture of BLO/phenothol to prime the
glazing area before setting the glass to help the linseed-based glazing
compound bond. You can get by w/ simply priming if choose but use a latex
primer thinly.

Dap (and others) makes an acrylic glazing that I don't recommend for
glazing but is suitable for the bedding in that it fills irregularities
easily and that's the key to the watertight seal you're looking for.

That's the disadvantage of the moulding to hold the glass in--sure, it
does the mechanical job but unless it's set in something like a silcone
caulk or similar there's no weather seal. And, if you do it that way, you
can get a seal but you've just created a nearly impossible repair job
if/when do need a repair.

Dap 33 is the common standard readily available; I like the Sarco
available thru Abatron...

http://www.abatron.com/cms/buildingandrestorationproducts/woodrestorationaccessories/glazingcompound.html

Glazing and getting a good finish is an art--be prepared to practice a
time or two to get the hang of it. Key is a good knife and keeping it and
hands clean and making the stroke firm and continuous once getting
started.

I don't necessarily have to replace the wood trim - these are basement
windows that sit partially below ground level in small dugouts and they
aren't highly visible. If it's easier to just fill the groove
(rabbet?)(rabbit?) with putty, I can do that also.

I have some "glazing compound" that is "a siliconized acrylic formula". I
also have some latex caulk, and some "siliconized latex caulk". That and
silicone sealant seems to be all that is locally available. Silicon sealant
is out - omg what a mess it made trying to clean that up after I removed the
pane - in pieces. Gluing the pane to the frame just doesn't seem like a
great idea. This stuff stuck to everything and was difficult to remove
without damaging the wood. I may end up replacing a few of the cross pieces
if I could figure out how to make them - I have a router and a couple dozen
bits, but I'm not a carpenter, nor am I expert at using a router

If I had the expertise, I'd just rebuild the frame...alas, I'm a computer
programmer, not a wood maker



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