On Nov 24, 2:27 am, "LGLA" wrote:
Greetings all, it's been a few years since I have been
here, I hope I can become welcome back.

Welcome back! It is good to see some old face back around here, not
just faces that are old!

Just kiddin'.....

I have been searching the 'net for about 1-1/2 weeks
trying to gather info on every circular saw that I
can find.

I was in the search for the perfect 7 1/4" saw for years after the
demise of my Milwaukees. The pre Tilt-Lock models were really hard
working great saws that took years of job site abuse before failing.

Many years ago my old Milwaukee saw was the only reliable heavy duty
saw I had. I used it so much for everything (at that time all I did
was carpentry work and contracting) I just took for granted it would
work. Over the time I was using it, it had three rebuilds and a
couple of repairs like triggers and cords. Not bad at all.

But they went to the Tilt-Lock, and the saw feels different, and to me
the opening for the blade around the shoe is just too large. I cut
with the material on both sides of the blade and that gap was a real
deal killer.

The DeWalts are nice saws when they are new, but they don't last well
at all on the jobsite. They might last well in home use, and they are
lightweight and easy to use. Some models have small, strangely shaped
shoes that I don't like. The exception is the DW364, which in my
opinion is a portable saw mill. Heavy to use all day but really heavy
duty, and a great saw.

I don't like any of the other offerings out there for daily use except
the Makita line. I use this one a lot, and actually really like it:

http://tinyurl.com/yhbdoo2

IIRC, it has needle and ball bearings in it, and I have to say it is
the smoothest cutting saw I have ever used. With a good computer
balanced blade in it, you can almost eliminate saw blade kerf marks.

It has plenty of power, and will push through just about anything. 2"
is just about at capacity for any sidewinder, but this saw will cut it
with no problems. This is a really great circular saw. If you get
the kit, you can see that it comes with a blade and rip guide.
something many don't come with anymore.

And with a guide, this thing is marvelous at taking down sheet goods
and even making final cuts for cabinets while out in the field.

I would like to effectively cut through 2" hardwoods
with a finer blade, no table saw locally capable, so
that's why I am curious about horse power and torque.
Or does it matter all that much, with circular saws?

Yes it does, BUT only if the information given by the manufacturer
is correct, and not some baloney like these 5-6 hp ratings on shop
vacs.

My old Milwaukee saws were rated at 13 amps. Torque unknown. They
would out cut the 15 amp PC saws my buddies had all day. The DeWalt
364 rated at 15 amps (torque unknown) will outcut other saws DeWalt
saws that are rated at 15 amps, and most other saws as well.

I would buy from a company that I could take the saw back to
immediately if I didn't like it. One reason to buy Ridgid. I thought
the Ridgid felt OK in the hand, but not great. While this is one I
don't have personal experience with, my amigos tell me that it is a
good "rough" saw, not one you could cut out a cabinet with as needed.
Apparently on the ones they have used, there is a tiny bit of play at
the arbor/bearings connections, and that makes it a bit wobbly.

Hope that helps...

I hope you post back here and let us know what you go and what you
think of it.

Robert