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[email protected] clare@snyder.on.ca is offline
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Default Rotting Window Frames

On Tue, 17 Nov 2009 08:57:11 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 17 Nov 2009 05:26:24 -0800 (PST), ransley
wrote:

On Nov 17, 7:13 am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote:

-snip-

Bondo as used in auto body repair works quite well and is commonly
available.

Before you do that- take some yellow pine, weigh it, take a chunk of
bondo and weigh it. Put both in water for a while & see how much
more water the bondo holds than the wood.

Auto-body bondo is not for wood. Bondo *does* make a wood repair
product though. I've never used it- but note that the directions say
"For Rotted Wood Problems, Use After Applying Rotted Wood
Stabilizer."

Jim

Bondo doesnt absorbe water its plastic, their 'wood' line is just
bondo, I used it this summer and compared it to regular bondo which
is alot cheaper.


Bondo absorbs moisture very easily. It is like a hard, open cell,
sponge. Very porous.


You must be using a different kind of Bondo...mine is talc (absorbs nothing)
bonded together with polyester resin (absorbs nothing), and a small amount
of magnesium carbonate. If it was porous it would make a lousy auto body
filler which is its primary use.

Unpainted it IS a lousy filler - and it does not work well filling
holes that get wet from behind. It gets wet, and when it freezes, it
"pops" That's why seams need to be well sealed before applying bondo
if you want the job to last - solder or "alumiplex" filler make it
waterproof - as does epoxy.

Cheap fiberglass boats made with polyester resin have a definite
lifespan limitation. Built with epoxy, much longer life span.