On Nov 11, 4:15*am, charlie b wrote:
If you're thinking in terms of a short lid "pull" - then you're probably
ok making
it an integral part of the lid of an acrossed the grain piece. *If, on
the other
hand, you have a taller, more delicate FINIAL in mind for lifting the
lid off
- probably not a good idea since *the grain orientation will make it
pretty
easy for you or someone else to snap it off.

I get from other information that you provided that you're not real sure
about wood movement - as the piece dries - and once dry, how it will
change with changes in temperature and humidity. *Not accounting for
those changes can be a real problem when you add a lid to something,
be it a bowl or a lidded box - especially when the piece isn't turned
"end grain".

You might want to have a look at this stuff on SHRINKAGE I'm working
on as an article on the importance - or not - of UNIFORM WALL THICKNESS
- a Common Knowledge Rule - which seems to be not quite true.

http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/T...e/BowlShrinkag...

Comments, questions, suggestions for improving, missing critical
issues, flat out error detection, etc. *would be appreciated.

Kevin here, the OP.

First off, thanks to all that replied.
To be completely honest, I did not think of cross grain versus
parallel grain finials, or at least not in terms of the former
breaking easier than the latter. The bowl is about 6" and perhaps 2"
high. The top would have, well not a finial but more of a small knob
on top with a neck (?) of no more than .25" in length. I tend to make
the tops for my bowls loose fitting just so folks can get to the
goodies inside. I am aware of movement, warpage, and the relationship
to drying and do try to keep a uniform wall thickness but most of the
wood I have has been in my basement are about 2-3" thick slabs and
were cut July 2007.
Thanks again for reminding me of the need to consider wood grain in
finials.