DIYbanter - View Single Post - Well pump issue

dpb

wrote:
....
I live in a 7 year old home. The well was dug 430 feet deep. The
pump was about 400 feet deep. ...

At about 280 feet, they approached me and said that there was a break
in the wire, and that they could either fix the break in the wire AND
replace the pressure tank, and control panel for $2800 total. OR they
could do the whole thing (go down the extra 120 feet, pull the pump
out, replace the pump, wire, control panel and water reservoir all for
$4900 total.

I didn't get a good answer as to how all these things can start with a
short in a wire. But one explanation is that the casing is @ 200
feet, and beyond 200 feet theres a chance that the pipe moves scrapes
the limestone, then causes a crack in the wire, which then the water
when it hits the break in the wire shorts the pump out.

Some of my concerns - how did the bladder break (how can there be any
correlation with the wire breaking in the well hole)? I didn't get
any good answers on that - just said it was a bad pressure tank and
that they don't like that model (even though they were the folks who
sold it to me).

Why did the control panel need to be replaced? They said that the
capacitor was leaking some white stuff, and because of that it will
probably need to be replaced. Yet, asking them to replace the
capacitor (alone) and not the $187 control panel - they said they
don't do that.

....

Superficially sounds like time for a different well service in the
future, perhaps, or more forceful response. Then again, wasn't there so
an abbreviated recount isn't necessarily conclusive. Just some thoughts
follow...

On discovering the break, the service (and I'd be looking, too) would've
looked at the wire condition and tried to come to a conclusion as to
what was the cause of the break. If it were apparent there's a rubbing
problem, would have added an bumper at and at some distance above/below
that point. Depending on condition, would have made a "real time"
decision on whether to splice or go w/ running new wire.

Either way, would have connected pump and tested before making decision
on pump replacement.

Then, once had pump repaired and operating would been time to diagnose
if was a problem w/ the pressure tank or not.

There would be no connection to the tank if the problem began at the
wire break; otoh if there was a bladder leak initially, that could cause
excessive pump cycling and that could have caused the increased wear and
thus indirectly been a contributor to the break...but, still, if they
didn't make the determination of a tank problem by observation after the
pump was working again, that would seem bad technique unless it was
already waterlogged.

As for the controller, and the caps, it would seem unlikely would need
to replace the controller instead of; I agree on that. Again, unless
they had leaked to the point had caused significant corrosion thus
making it needed. One thing I've noted w/ some is that on the
electrical end they don't want to spend time w/ repair; they'll rather
just replace. Also, if had new controller on the truck but not right
caps, depending on location to shop/distributor and/or time/day, they
get going w/ what have on hand instead of going to get parts.

If they went thru the sequence, probably ok. If just started throwing
parts at it, maybe they tend to pad the call. Again, w/o having actual
"film at 11" it's mostly supposition.

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