On Wed, 28 Oct 2009 13:26:14 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 28 Oct 2009 03:39:34 -0500, cavelamb
wrote:

Steve Lusardi wrote:
I would use either a pneumatic cylinder or a hydraulic cylinder,
gimbaled at both ends. Connected by a clevis pin fork and tang
arrangement at the tiller. I would connect a small accumulator tank in
series with a simple ball valve where one end goes to one end of the
cylinder. The other connection of the cylinder connects in series at the
accumulator tank so that all of these are in series with each other in a
loop. When the valve is open air or fluid simply moves freely around the
system as the tiller is moved. The closing of the valve solidly locks
the tiller in that position. The key here is to use the largest internal
diameter plumbing as possible to reduce drag when the valve is open.
These parts are available surplus everywhere and they are inexpensive.
Steve

Now there is an interesting idea.

That would certainly lock it in place easy enough.
And could even be fairly easy to trim.

But the first time it piddles hydraulic fluid into my clean
cockpit it's going overboard!


Sure you dont like my emailed idea of a large camera tripod leg with
either lever lock or standard "turn to adjust/lock"? Tough, fast to
adjust and easy to find.

Shrug

Gunner


Point taken for a couple of good reasons.

It's not the way I would want to adjust tiller trim.
But might be necessary for quick rough set and to disengage in order
to maneuver - without removing the link.

What rough set and trim?? One simply sets the critter to the tiller
angle desired and voila!

If you are a half point above or below..its very simple to reset the
critter when needed.

But how much does that complicate the simple screw device?

You do know that I too sail, right? Ive done many thousands of hours
of lightwind lake sailing..where adjusting to the wind requires a
fraction of a degree of tiller change...far far less than you will ever
likely use. Most folks who sail on Big Water are simply unable to sail
in the sort of "light wind" that us California lake sailors have to deal
with. And Id never bother with "fractional inch" adjustment of a tiller
lock.

Single hand a Thistle in 1mph wind...or in 25mph...(over that..one needs
a crew simply for ballast in a Thistle) (Thistle #1308) in stronger
winds..one can have a minute or two of angle off course and never pay
any price. And frankly..if you want to adjust the critter with a screw
in/screw out gizmo..its doable..but Id put as big a handwheel in the
middle of the threaded on both ends rod..so you can spin the ******* in
and out. You are going to need at least..least 8-12" of adjustment
range..and while thats not a big deal...screwing in your threaded ends
say...6" is going to take some time.

Hence my suggestion that something fast and easy to adjust and lock the
bar/rod/gizmo, along with strong enough to hold the tiller in a blow
makes more sense TO ME..than does something that will take -5 minutes to
set up and adjust.

BTW, you guys were really kind for not hammering me on the opposite
threads requirement. I caught it as soon as I thought about drawing threads.

G

Unless you do it all the time...thinking about lefthand threads isnt all
that common.

I'm blaming it on G. Killian (again)...

Blame it on being human.

Gunner, who still has issues with turnbuckles now and then...G The
second to the last one he made had 2 right hand threads...damnit.

Richard

"I am for doing good to the poor, but I differ in opinion of the
means. I think the best way of doing good to the poor, is not
making them easy in poverty, but leading or driving them out of
it. In my youth I travelled much, and I observed in different
countries, that the more public provisions were made for the
poor the less they provided for themselves, and of course became
poorer. And, on the contrary, the less was done for them, the
more they did for themselves, and became richer." -- Benjamin
Franklin, /The Encouragement of Idleness/, 1766