mogga
wibbled on Tuesday 27 October 2009 11:39

On Tue, 27 Oct 2009 10:56:50 +0000, Tim W wrote:


So about 8m2 including 10% tile wasteage, so that's 32 quid's worth of
tiles, 2 tubs of BAL Greenstar (£19) and some grout (£20 at worst). A

So those 15cm square white tiles ... at tops tiles... (Ahh just
spotted the link below)
I'd not considered them but it's certainly an option I spose. Ta. :-)
I will go and ask Mr Mogga what he thinks of the idea

If I've undone any preconception that tiling is really expensive, then if
you set a budget you might be able to get something really nice from a
clearance deal without spending much more.

For example, still on the neutral white theme:

http://www.wallsandfloors.co.uk/prod...s.php?tid=2366

roll in at about £70.



decent can of Dulux Endurance is £20. So the tiling option is £51 more.
Take out the lining paper and adhesive if you do use those and you're left
with the question:

Are the admittedly very cheap white tiles above going to look better or
worse than painted lining paper or painted walls?

They've be easier to clean for sure.

True. Endurance paint is a bit tougher than cheap emulsion, so you hould get
some milage out of it.


Endurance has lots of nice colours too - cool!

Infinite virtually - it's one that can be blended in store from the 6
million colours on the little cards.

I know it's just whether mr mogga will trust me to do it. (there's
plenty of other jobs for him to be doing already ... he did let me put
a couple of tiles on in the bathroom here the other year, and didn't
remove them the minute I left the room )

If you start by marking the wall with a level line and maybe repeat after a
couple of courses, or use a line laser if Mr Mogga has one, or a taught
string set level - then that and tile spacers makes it easy to avoid
wobbliness.

The BAL Greenstar, like many modern adhesives is near zero slip, so you get
to adjust the tile for quite a while and it will stay put by itself - no
need for battens to support the first row. My advice is small grout lines -
2mm or so, but it's personal preference.

The only fiddly bit is cutting tiles, which is only likely to be 2 edges and
the sockets if you plan it right - but a hand scorer will work for minimum
expense and a nibbler or saw to go round awkward shapes.


Cheers

Tim

--
Tim Watts

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