In article ,
"js.b1" writes:
On Oct 26, 6:04*pm, (Andrew Gabriel)
wrote:
In article ,
* * * * "js.b1" writes:
It just occurred to me that Klik lacks shuttered pins - so industrial/
commercial only?

I choose to deliberately ignore in this case (the rule predates
Klik). It's quite difficult to make contact by sticking something
in the slots - it has to be very pointed and thin, or a bare wire.
I use these for kitchen lighting where the lights are attached
to the kitchen wall units, and you run a flex back to a Klik
wall plate, but you don't expect to be frequently plugging and
unplugging them (e.g. only if you are taking down the kitchen
units). You can pre-wire the cupboards before putting them up,
and then simply plug them in.
They work great - easy to change lights.
Currently I have a vertical 2G-47mm box with two MK grid cord-outlets
for lights & smoke.
I will add a Klik Architrave w/backbox above it.
The backbox will need side-entry, I suspect most do not, so it will be
hole-punch & grommet time. The ceiling will have to come down at some

The holes in architrave back boxes are smaller than normal anyway.
I never have any grommets which fit, so I end up cutting a piece
out of a 20mm grommet to make it smaller, but still slightly too
big so it's a tight fit and won't pop out.

point so it makes it *really* easy to unplug/refit/plug without
fighting screw terminals.

There's a completely flush wall mounting variant which is designed
to mate with a plug built into the back of a wall light, which also
supports the light. I thought that was a smart idea, but I've never
seen any wall lights with the plug built in. I looked at modifying
a sconce uplight I was planning on using to work this way, but the
rear didn't have enough space.

--
Andrew Gabriel
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