Mike:

Ain't the prettiest but looks like a user.

Suggestions though

1. knock of the sharp corners now rather than after they
gouge out part of your body. They will bite you-
honest.

2. lightly round over the edges - reaching under the
bench to get a tool and making contact with the
back of your forearm will be less painful.

3. don't know if your bench dogs will ovalize your
dog holes but I do know that the whack down, bump
to remove, hold downs will in relatively few uses,
especially if you whack them down hard.

4. probably to late to add leg levelers but should
you ever get around to doing another bench or
changing the feet on this one (as if) check out
the bottom of this page (all one line)
http://www.wood-workers.com/users/charlieb/!M&T/CBbench20.html
Using an allen wrench you can adjust them up or
down without having to lay on the floor, fiddling with
a pair of wrenches. The foot swivels so you can
compensate for floors that are less than flat and
smooth. Some 60 or 80 grit glued to the bottom and
the bench won't slide, even on an epoxied floor.
IF THE BOTTOM OF THE LEGS AIN'T COPLANAR THE TOP
AIN'T GONNA BE FLAT LONG.

Bullseye levels make leveling - however you shim/
wedge things - easier and quicker.

Hadn't thought of putting a dog hole on the side the
the vise jaw but it makes sense. Am going to have
to go over the Allen book again. Way too many things
to miss in that book, even on the third pass. Add the
Landis book and it's mental overload time.

OK to pick your brain on installing the Veritas Twin
Screw?

Thanks for the page with all the good photos.

charlie b

ps - your shop floor is WAY to clean. That will change
once all those hand planes start getting used.
And curlies will clog that dust collector.