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Limp Arbor Limp Arbor is offline
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Default Radon mitigation

On Sep 29, 6:50*pm, bob haller wrote:
On Sep 29, 5:19 pm, Art Todesco wrote:





bob haller wrote:
On Sep 29, 9:05 am, Van Chocstraw
wrote:
Jack wrote:
I've got to have the radon problem taken care of in my house. Where is
the real "cost" of the project? Is it putting in the pit, running the
pipe, the expertise, etc, etc.? The reason I ask is I have a sump pit
already available, a pipe that runs through the house to the attic, and
the electrical hookup. I think I just need a pipe from the pit, a fan
in the attic, and the hole punched in the roof. Getting estimates next
week.
Thank you for your time.
So you want to blow your heat outside? Costly. If you have a dryer down
there it takes care of it if you exhaust it outside. Radon leaches very
slowly. You can evacuate the air out in 5 minutes and be clean for a week.


radon tests prohibit any kinds of exhausts, homes must be closed and
sealed during test period.


mostly this comes up at home resale time. new buyer demands test


I just went through this in selling a
home. My small basement was 0.1 picocurries
over the limit, which I think was 4 in
the Chicago suburban area. It cost me $850
to have a 4" hole drilled with a pipe
going outside. Outside was a fan which then
ran up the wall through the eave and out
above the roof. The fan used something
like 60 watts 24/7, to say nothing of
sucking heat out of the basement and heating
the outside air. They also sealed the
sump pit, which, now, if there's a sump
problem, it will be a pane to fix. They
had to re-do the hole in the floor because
the original was causing the water in
the sump to swirl which was causing the pump
to short cycle. BTW, I heard that in
Canada the limit was 20, while in the
southwest,
where there is more radon, it is 7, but
I don't remember if I checked these numbers
or not. If the test were done in the
summertime, it would have probably passed
as my heating system combustion blower
sucked in combustion air from the
basement, leading to a negative
pressure. I shut it off until the day I
moved. Besides using
power and waisting heat, it hummed and
drove me nuts.- Hide quoted text -




since it sucks from under the slab it shouldnt be exhausting warm
air....- Hide quoted text -



Like Art said the fan connected to pipe in the slab creates negative
pressure under the slab. This causes air in the house to force it's
way under the slab either around the edges, through cracks, or the
sump pit. The only way you might be able to prevent this is to have a
'fresh air' intake for the underside of the slab.

New construction in many places now requires that a loop or loops of
radon pipes be placed in the gravel under the slab. This effectively
creates a passive exhaust system that may eliminate any potential high
readings. If there are high readings when the house is done it is
easy to connect a fan to theses pipes and theoretically eliminate all
interior radon.