On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 20:24:06 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article ,
PeterC writes:
On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 05:05:26 -0700 (PDT), js.b1 wrote:

Tap - do proper plumbing or use flex-pipes with shutoff ball-valves.
Avoid low height taps as their limited ability to get receptacles
underneath merely invites "bang flexion" against the pipes. Water
hammer can be (or become) a problem if you get new water mains - along
with pressure drifting up to extreme levels. Replacing w/m flex pipes
with new or better quality can help.

Also single-lever mixers can be bad if the mechanism stiffens up, as
there's a lot of leverage on the sink and moving of the tails.

I'm intending to get a pair of bibtaps (with upstands)

http://www.taps4less.com/PP/U-KD302.html

and, although my sink is better than almost all modern ones (40yo stainless
steel one) and OK with pillar taps, it'll have a bit of 16ga stainless
under the deck, as wide as it'll take.

I set the tap into the worktop behind the sink, which means
having the sink set as far forward as it can, but that's also
most comfortable for using it.

No worktop here, the sink has a 3cm lip up to tiles - much more civilized.
Not long after the sink was fitted I put a st. st. end on the open draining
board (the other one goes to tiles), with sealant in the joint and st. st.
pop-rivets. My Father wanted the cooker next to the sink(!) and I wouldn't
do that unless he couldn't sluice water in to the cooker.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.