On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 16:39:25 -0400, greenpjs wrote:

On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 15:07:35 -0400, Jamie
t wrote:

boardjunkie wrote:

On Sep 23, 1:28 pm, Jamie
t wrote:

1000Watts Colby. But, since it was free, I'd like to
get the TV piped into it.


Coby. 1000w my ass.

http://www.nextdaypc.com/main/produc...inid=ND0130014

Look like that? It is what it is.....


Yes, its close to it. The one I have has all of that plus it as a USB
and SD card reader in the back. Maybe this one also has it but just
doesn't state it.

And of course, the Wattage is a big fat lie!..

They must be using some metric other than what we're
accustom to.
The supplied wire for the speakers at best is, 22 AWG and
may even be 24 AWG.

I once saw a labeling on a package from china, I can't remember
the exact abbreviation used.. but something like PM,.CM ,PCM etc
wattage..
Must be a different scale of watts!



I'm not trying to defend a piece of junk, but a system *can* be designed
to handle that peak power without drawing that same amount of power from
the mains. Back in the days of just regular stereo, I was always amazed
that I could play my system at an almost painful level and with the
average power to the speakers remaining below 5 watts. Of course, the
peaks were many many times higher. A good system would put out 5 watts
with 200 watt peaks. A cheap system would put out 5 watts with 10 watt
peaks. The difference in sound quality was very obvious.
Anyway, my only point is the peak power output of any system can be a lot
more than multiplying the mains volatage by the mains current. Large power
supply capacitors provide the energy for the short peaks.

The actual output wattage vs the computed instentanious peak wattage is
the key to wattage measurements. Every manufacturer uses their own
formulas but most actually include the wasted current used by the output
stages as actual effective wattage.

I had a Fisher unit that was rated at only 8 watts from 8 to 20,000
cycles and it was far superior to the then current 2-300 watt peak
stereos because the rating on the Fisher was 8 watts continuous across an
8 ohm speaker for an actual output current of 1 amp across the speaker.
This was actually higher than the rated peak output on others.

As far as I know Fisher was the only maker that ever used actual power
output in their ratings.

They generated a very stiff power supply by using 65,000 MF filter caps on
the positive and negative supplies with a very heavy power transformer.
The total voltage across the output IC pacs was around 120V total and the
power supply was fused at 5 amps max.

So yes it is possible to build a quality system but cheap usually wins out
over quality.

Gnack