Michael Koblic wrote:
Wes wrote:
"Michael Koblic" wrote:

What is it about drilling cross holes in small parts that causes
these things to happen?
How cheap are your drills? I tend to use PTD most of the time,

My other thought, are you using 'mystery metal' ?


Cheap. But I thought even a cheap drill should last one hole - this was a
new drill! However, you may have a point: I have stub drills bought from KBC
Tools which I keep for the use with my Taig lathe. Nothing fancy, 118
degrees points. Cut way better than the Canadian Tire drills.

The metal should have been mild steel but I am beginning to wonder...I shall
re-run the procedure with a certified mild steel and a stub drill as Winston
suggested. I did peck and push...

We've all been in the situation where it becomes
clear that the cutting lips have turned into a 'bearing'.

Occasionally, one can rescue the situation
by applying more force to break through
the glasslike surface and the tool begins cutting
once again. It's that large pressure which allows
a Cole Drill to cut through stainless and tool steel
using regular HSS bits.

If you have sufficient force on the quill, the cutting
lips always stay below the work hardened area and it
never binds up (for that reason).

You might be surprised how much force you can put on the quill
with great results.

--Winston