On Sep 8, 3:53*pm, "RBM" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message
...
On Sep 8, 2:25 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/
*I usually use metal boxes in garages due to the firewall requirement..
You
should not install your wiring devices until after the drywall is
installed.
The routing of the cable seems fine except that Romex cannot extend over
four feet without being supported. If the space above the ceiling is
going
to be an accessible attic space you will need to install running boards
along side of your cables. Throw in a couple of nailplates in the
corners
to protect the cable from nails.
I see that you are using 12/2 for lighting. It sounds like overkill. Did
you actually figure out what your lighting load is going to be? There is
no
need for a GFCI circuit breaker for your outdoor lighting however your
garage receptacles are required to be GFCI protected including the one
on
the ceiling. A GFCI receptacle is cheaper than a GFCI circuit breaker
and
can protect receptacles downstream.
Since you seem to be using all 12/2 be mindful of the cubic inch
capacity
of
your boxes. Each wiring device uses the equivalent of two conductors and
must be considered when calculating your total number of wires in a box.
Since this probably a subpanel your ground wires in the circuit breaker
panel need to go onto the ground bar and not the neutral bar. Grounds
and
neutrals are kept separate in a subpanel. You will need to run four
conductors to feed your subpanel. Remove the green bonding screw from
the
neutral bar. I think that a main breaker is required in the panel for
this
installation, but I would need to look it up to be sure. If that two
pole
breaker in the lower left is going to be your main it will need to be
held
down with a screw or clamp. Check the panel labeling for the part number
for this.
My panel is "upside down" The instructions said to mount it this way
if the panel will be "bottom fed". Which mine will. SO the ground buss
is on the left and the neutral bus is on the right.
*The neutral buss is on each side and you currently have your ground wires
connected to the left side neutral bar. You are supposed to connect each
neutral below the corresponding circuit breaker for easy identification..
The ground bar is that small little screw terminal strip on the left set
back from the neutral bar. You can probably install at least two wires
under
each screw on the ground bar which is why it is so small. The panel
labeling will tell you the number of wires per screw allowed. The label
may
also have a diagram of the interior of the panel confirming the neutral
bar
on each side.
Please tell me that you will be having this work inspected.- Hide quoted
text -
- Show quoted text -
I will double check but the bank on the right says "neutral" and the
one on the left says "ground". I plan on using this as a garage and
hobby shop. I was told I could have a maximum of 13 outlets on one
circuit so I figured 11 was ok. I figured it would be rare to run more
than one thing at a time.
Sounds like your adviser is mistaking commercial outlet requirements for
residential outlet requirements. There is no minimum or maximum amount of
outlets per circuit. As John Grabowski points out, there is something
peculiar about the neutral buss. I recognize the panel as a GE brand, and
there should be a bridge connecting the two neutral busses, which I don't
see.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
The person that advised me was the electrical inspector. He said to
figure 1.5 amps per outlet. 1.5 x 13 = 19.5 amps. (all mine are 20 amp
circuts.
i will double check when I get home but I really belive I only have
one neutral buss and the other is ground. This is a 100 amp GE panel
with 100 amp main breaker. Bought at Lowes.