On Sep 8, 2:25*pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/

*I usually use metal boxes in garages due to the firewall requirement. You
should not install your wiring devices until after the drywall is
installed.
The routing of the cable seems fine except that Romex cannot extend over
four feet without being supported. If the space above the ceiling is going
to be an accessible attic space you will need to install running boards
along side of your cables. Throw in a couple of nailplates in the corners
to protect the cable from nails.

I see that you are using 12/2 for lighting. It sounds like overkill. Did
you actually figure out what your lighting load is going to be? There is
no
need for a GFCI circuit breaker for your outdoor lighting however your
garage receptacles are required to be GFCI protected including the one on
the ceiling. A GFCI receptacle is cheaper than a GFCI circuit breaker and
can protect receptacles downstream.

Since you seem to be using all 12/2 be mindful of the cubic inch capacity
of
your boxes. Each wiring device uses the equivalent of two conductors and
must be considered when calculating your total number of wires in a box..

Since this probably a subpanel your ground wires in the circuit breaker
panel need to go onto the ground bar and not the neutral bar. Grounds and
neutrals are kept separate in a subpanel. You will need to run four
conductors to feed your subpanel. Remove the green bonding screw from the
neutral bar. I think that a main breaker is required in the panel for this
installation, but I would need to look it up to be sure. If that two pole
breaker in the lower left is going to be your main it will need to be held
down with a screw or clamp. Check the panel labeling for the part number
for this.

My panel is "upside down" The instructions said to mount it this way
if the panel will be "bottom fed". Which mine will. SO the ground buss
is on the left and the neutral bus is on the right.

*The neutral buss is on each side and you currently have your ground wires
connected to the left side neutral bar. You are supposed to connect each
neutral below the corresponding circuit breaker for easy identification.
The ground bar is that small little screw terminal strip on the left set
back from the neutral bar. You can probably install at least two wires under
each screw on the ground bar which is why it is so small. *The panel
labeling will tell you the number of wires per screw allowed. *The label may
also have a diagram of the interior of the panel confirming the neutral bar
on each side.

Please tell me that you will be having this work inspected.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I will double check but the bank on the right says "neutral" and the
one on the left says "ground". I plan on using this as a garage and
hobby shop. I was told I could have a maximum of 13 outlets on one
circuit so I figured 11 was ok. I figured it would be rare to run more
than one thing at a time.