"stryped" wrote in message
...
As you know I am working on wiring a detached garage/shop. I am a
newbie. I have attached a link to my work thus far. I am having a
little trouble figuring out how to route everything. Any helpful
advice is appreciated.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42254706@N03/


*I usually use metal boxes in garages due to the firewall requirement. You
should not install your wiring devices until after the drywall is installed.
The routing of the cable seems fine except that Romex cannot extend over
four feet without being supported. If the space above the ceiling is going
to be an accessible attic space you will need to install running boards
along side of your cables. Throw in a couple of nailplates in the corners
to protect the cable from nails.

I see that you are using 12/2 for lighting. It sounds like overkill. Did
you actually figure out what your lighting load is going to be? There is no
need for a GFCI circuit breaker for your outdoor lighting however your
garage receptacles are required to be GFCI protected including the one on
the ceiling. A GFCI receptacle is cheaper than a GFCI circuit breaker and
can protect receptacles downstream.

Since you seem to be using all 12/2 be mindful of the cubic inch capacity of
your boxes. Each wiring device uses the equivalent of two conductors and
must be considered when calculating your total number of wires in a box.

Since this probably a subpanel your ground wires in the circuit breaker
panel need to go onto the ground bar and not the neutral bar. Grounds and
neutrals are kept separate in a subpanel. You will need to run four
conductors to feed your subpanel. Remove the green bonding screw from the
neutral bar. I think that a main breaker is required in the panel for this
installation, but I would need to look it up to be sure. If that two pole
breaker in the lower left is going to be your main it will need to be held
down with a screw or clamp. Check the panel labeling for the part number
for this.