On 1 Sep, 21:03, Tim S wrote:
So:
If starting from scratch, what *do* you choose?
Many 5W led downlighters in one ceiling have been suggested.
In a low ceiling , its a possibility , but concealed fluro may offer
a more even solution depending on the space.
For my part, I'm trying to minimise the number of different lamp types I
have to stock as spares - and trying to use lamp bases where many different
types (eg wattage, colours, led replacements) are or might be available.
Lamp bases is a bit of red herring really, keeping spares in depth
should become less of a problem with extending lamp lifes.
So far, of fittings I have already acquired:
2 sets of GU10 240V fittings: rationale are that (currently) there are loads
of GU10 lamps in lots of ratings, colours and led types. The last fact
suggests *if* led lamp offerings become any good (and I mean lamps, not lab
grade leds, of which I have several excellent ones) then GU10 seems to be a
format they are likely to appear in.
GU10 is just the base, the lamp shape is MR16, 16 1/8th of an inch,
dont think seen MR11 in GU10.
MR16 is a spotlight lamp, its meant for highlighting things .
Anyway MR16 lamps are 2" in diameter and can get a huge range of
fittings, from cheap downlighter rings to multihead ceiling fitiings
that take a 2" lamp.
SELV fittings will have a trafo for them and probably a GX 5.3 bi pin
base but the lamp shape is the same, GU10 usually slightly deeper.
All the Compact Fluorescent CFL and Cold Cathode Compact Fluorescent
CCFL lamps in MR16 are rubbish, optically most of light stays in
fitting and the heat means they cook themselves, an option comfortably
ignored.
LED MR16 goes from novelty, glass ones with quantity of 5mm LEDs
crammed in, cheap and dim but ok for very short throw use, great if
you want quantity in saturated colours.
Mid range , some of the better no brand 3 and 5W high power LED MR16s
are getting pretty good, its lifetime that may be suspect.
High end, specialist lamps made from big brand named components from
known colour bins with choice of optics.Premium end of price
performance curve.
Get all of them in 12 or 240V flavours.
For general lighting ,lot of stuff that is still in commercial zone ,
and priced accordingly but often not built to match its price TBH,
that will hopefully begin to work down to domestic world.
Metal halide is now down to domestic sized lamps , 35W is available
but generally in commercial fittings.
Metal halide, high pressure sodium and high efficiency fluro are good
ways to go for general area lighting, if you`ve got the celing height
uplighters are available in all of these sources. Not reccomendation
just an idea of whats available outside of B&Q, John Lewis and BHS:
http://www.litecraftcommercial.co.uk...UPLIGHTERS.asp
Commercial downlighters also make some sense in some domestic
applications:
http://www.qvsdirect.com/Recessed-Di...-pr-21377.html
Screwfix one is a high frequency ballast accounts for difference in
price
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/24878/...ergy-Downlight
2 sets (7 total) 12V G4 lamps: used where SELV is a good idea (TM)
Fluorescent striplights for under cabinet use.
Stick to T5 which is a standard rather than T4 which is anyones guess.
Anything else: standard size BC base - lots of decent CFLs in this format.
ES, E27 is a more common continental base , but B.C . implies hanging
pendants , probably only good for the airing cupboard nowadays and
even then theres a case for LED...
Adam
Cheers
Tim