John Rumm wrote:
jim wrote:

ah can you refresh me on how to desolder please?
I was imagining using a desolder pump thingy I have or cutting the
legs off the old pots (a la Natural Philosopher) and then taking the
remaining "feet"? out one at a time...

For something like a through hole PCB mounted pot, then you can desolder
each contact with a soldering iron and desolder pump.

You will probably need to apply some fresh solder to the tip of the iron
to tin it, and allow for more rapid heat transfer to the tab. Reflow the
joint and then suck it clean with the pump. You may need a couple of
bites at each to get rid of all the visible solder. Once all the pins
are desoldered you may find they are still "stuck" by a thin film of
solder. A gentle wiggle of each should free it. Sometimes a bit of
lateral pressure on the end of the tab with a flat bladed screw driver
will free it. (a handy knack to practice is to hold the tab away from
the sides of the hole in the PCB with the tip of the desolder pump as it
cools - that prevents it getting stuck back into the film of solder)

(Note that If you are dealing with very fine PCB traces, a small hole
annulus, or anything surface mount, then it is probably safer for the
board to run a sharp knife down the contacts and cut the device away
first. Each remaining leg can then be flicked off with a hot iron with
very little risk to the board).


Note that if pumpless, the outer sheath of coax if stripped makes a fine
braid to attract solder onto.


HOWEVER, having worked in the game many years, the best way to strip a
component KNOWN to be bad is to cut its legs of and remove them one by
one with fine pliers and a soldering iron, and redrill the holes if you
haven't got desoldering equipment.

It also works well for politicians, but is sadly illegal.#