George,

I'm an agnostic on this issue of which method yields the best joint too!
Just 2 days ago I ripped a hunk of face-glued poplar to 1/16" thick,
soaked it in water and bent the piece 180 degrees to form a U shaped
trough. The Titebond glue held fast in that 1/16" thick piece (there
were 2 glue lines in it), even when wet, so I don't know how much better
I can get glue to stick! But I'm always open to suggestions...except
the rude ones from the miscreants. g

dave

George wrote:

If you take the perfect stroke with minimum blade exposure, all's the same.

Maybe someone in the group can help me, but I believe the theory behind it
is that you have hardened and burnished your jointed faces, and will get a
better glue joint by "opening" the pores. I think it's crap, and glue off
the jointer or the TS with a good blade.

You use a plane to do two things, if you're a basic Norm - trim and surface.

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
m...


My question is more related to starting with a totally flat edge. The
idea is that some woodworkers like to run a hand plane over a jointed
edge for that "edge" (pun intended) in quality of a glue up joint. So
what I want to know is if you are going to just cut a smidge from the
edge with a smaller plane, do you end up with a worse edge than if you
just rely on a well power jointed edge? Is anyone understanding what I
getting at? (Cramer, for god's sake, don't answer, you are just an
absolute jerk of grand proportions and I can't imagine why anyone would
respond to you).