On Aug 9, 12:35*am, E Z Peaces wrote:
Darro wrote:
After disconnecting and reconnecting the wires in an electrical
circuit, my low-tech current tester seems to indicate (with low lamp
brightness) that the current in the reconnected wire circuit isn't as
strong as I think it should be. Could there be a problem with my
reconnections?

Facts:
Wires are in a metal ceiling box governed by a wall switch.

One 14/3 wire plus ground enters the box and one 14/2 plus ground
enters the box from the opposite side.

Black wire from 14/3 is connected inside the box to black wire from
14/2 wire. White wire from 14/3 is connected to white wire from 14/2
wire, both of which are connected to one end of a short white 14 gauge
wire. The other end of the short white 14 gauge wire isn't connected
to anything. The red wire from 14/3 isn't connected to anything.

The ground wires from the 14/3 and 14/2 are connected to each other
and rest against the metal box which has no screw to fasten them to
the box.

I'm assuming that I can connect a standard two-wire lamp fixture to
the red wire and the white wire. When I test the circuit by touching
one wire on my tester to the red wire and the other wire on my tester
to the short white wire, the lamp that indicates current flow is much
dimmer than it is if I insert the wires on my tester into the
prong-holes in a wall socket.

Is the relatively dim indicator light on the tester a sign that I've
reconnected the wires incorrectly? If not, why is the indicator light
so much dimmer?

Thanks in advance for your replies,
Dennis

I think the box was installed as part of a three-way system, and there
was once another three-conductor cable going to another switch. *If you
still have a three-way switch, the red may be live when the light is
switched off.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Strongly suggest the OP get some help from someone more
knowledgeable.

There is also a danger that while it might be made to work something
unsafe will be left undone!
Such as that "..... ground wires from the 14/3 and 14/2 are connected
to each other and rest against the metal box which has no screw to
fasten them to the box".
(It's pretty easy to provide some sort of connection to most metal
boxes using household tools; it also suggests that whoever did the
previous work may have installed something that is not to code or in a
rather slap-dash fashion?)

Later on in the event of a problem neither the fire commissioner nor
an insurance company would be very impressed by "Thought it was all
right to hook it up that way"!

It does sound also that the OP is using some form of voltage
tester????
Possibly a digital voltmeter or similar and may be picking up a
capacitive or other stray induced voltage (but not actual current
flow) on an otherwise 'dead' wire.

But there is confusion with the use of the terms 'voltage' and
'current' which makes it impossible to tell what is meant!

Just for the record (and even then terms are often used loosely in day
to day conversation);

1) Voltage is the 'pressure' at which electricity is present or not in
a circuit or between two conductors. It is measured in volt. Nominally
in North America the voltage is often and typically somewhere between
115 and 125 volts.

2) Current is the 'amount' of electricity, measured in amperes (amps)
that is flowing through an established(and switched on) circuit. It is
infrequently necessary to measure current in most domestic wiring
situations. Provided a circuit is properly wired (and grounded) and
switches and circuit breakers work correctly it is very unusual to
have to measure the amount of current actually flowing.

Since, in this case the wiring is 14 AWG the fusing and/or circuit
breaker for this circuit, no matter whatever else is joined into it,
should not be larger than 15 amps.

Agree don't use the tester; depend on a standard light bulb in a
pigtailed lamp socket. Check that ground wire 'really' is grounding
the box and also as it should be back at the main panel. 'Ground' not
essential for getting a lighting circuit to work, but for safety and
to meet code. Some other electrician may need to safely work on that
circuit some time in the future.