Don Klipstein wrote:
In , jeff_wisnia wrote:

SNIP to here to edit for space

Don't overlook the possibility that a loose neutral (read higher
resistance than a "solid" connection) combined with current loads on the
opposite side of the 230 volt service could be causing higher than
normal voltage across that bulb. It's a long shot, but far from unheard of.

My own solution for increasing the life of incandescent bulbs is to
install a solid state dimmer in a non accessable location and crank it
slightly down from full on. I did that for all the 25 and 40 watt
bathroom mirror surround lights in our home when we built it 23 years
ago and its amazing how few times in all those years I've had to replace
a bulb in those bathrooms. I willingly accept the slight lumen per watt
inefficiency in return for the savings in bulb costs.

If by bulb costs you mean only the price of the bulbs, I expect that
your dimming is causing you to lose money unless the next lower available
wattage is unacceptably dim and you have a cosmetic or light distribution
problem with removing one bulb instead.

If you attribute value of time and effort expended to replace bulbs,
then it gets reasonable to dim them a bit, maybe to extent of achieving
average operating life around 3,000-5,000 hours. Use of 130V bulbs
available from Lowes, with the same CC-6 or CC-8 filament used in
"standard" incandescents 25 watts and up (more efficient with maybe less
vibration resistance), has a fair chance of achieving this to extent that
many desire.

- Don Klipstein )
Hi,
When I had this house built in '94 all the bulbs were 130V commercial
grade where ithey are needed. As fas as I remember none burnt out yet.
Most are on dimmer.