On Jul 30, 10:54*am, Aaron Fude wrote:
Hi,

I have a wire that seems to have only to conductors in it. It's a gray
wire in which the plastic sheath is tight over the wire. The two wires
are about 1/4" apart. I'm not sure how to better describe it.

It seems to be connected to a double breaker and carrying 240V to the
A/C unit. Does that make sense? I guess if the two wires are 120V
out-of-phase then the AC current can just flow from one of the wires to
the other?

I'm trying to make sense of this for my own education, but also
wondering what kind of wire I would need (12/2?) to replace this one
(it's routed stupidly).

Thanks,

Aaron.

As posted: The question begs some very basic information.

Do hope that what is is described is not some sort of lash-up, perhaps
using some sort of lamp wiring or portable extension cord????? In
which case it a) May not be safe b) Not of sufficient size c) Not meet
insurance standards (Liability?) or electrical codes.

1) The size of wire depends on the load to be carried.
In North America typical a
#14 AWG 15 amps. Typically used for lighting circuits.
#12 AWG 20 amps. Often/sometimes for duplex wall outlets etc.
#10 AWG 30 amps. Typically for a clothes dryer and/or electric hot
water tank circuit.
Most wires (if they meet code) are rated for either 300 or 600
volts.
Wiring may have either two insulated conductors plus ground wire.
2) The circuit breaker must be sized to the gauge of wire.
As per above wire rating; do not exceed. The circuit breaker protects
the wiring and anything connected to that circuit.
For example do not connect say 14 AWG to a 20 amp breaker.
And/or do not 'extend', say, an existing #12 AWG circuit using a
lesser (higher numbered) gauge wire such as #14.
3) A typical continuous maximum load is 80% of the rated capacity. So,
for example a 20 amp circuit is normally happy carrying some 15 to 16
amps.
Regarding 220 versus 110 (sometimes it's 230 and 115 and sometimes
again it's 240 vs. 120) but the principal, in domestic situations, but
not industrial or commercial applications where there may be 208 volts/
347 volts etc. is the same.
Have emailed the OP directly with a suggestion as to how to recognise
a domestic SINGLE PHASE 110/220 volt service.