Shade-Tree Metal Hardening
On Sat, 25 Jul 2009 17:53:55 -0500, Tim Wescott wrote:
After I bend up my first attempt at a fixture I'll want to do it up
right. It seems like I should just be able to heat up my whole assembly
to a dull red then chuck the thing into a bucket of water -- does this
sound correct? I have some pottery clay lying around so I'll probably
paint the pins with clay & charcoal in an attempt to protect them from
decarburization. When I fish it out of the bucket should I try tempering
it? If so, how, and how much?
The heat-generating tools I have available are pretty much a propane
torch and an O-A cutting torch. The temperature measurement tools I have
are my own somewhat color blind eyes.
Ideally, heat it until a magnet (or magnetized screwdriver etc.) doesn't stick
to it. That ensures that you've got it hot enough to harden. as soon as
possible after quenching, put it in the pre-heated kitchen oven at about
220C/430F or a bit higher for an hour. If you don't do that, there is a danger
of the pins shattering :-(
Soap, mixed with water to a creamy consistency works quite well to shield
parts form air. It should come off when quenching.
If you can find them, use a couple or four fire bricks or some mineral wool to
contain the heat. Takes a lot less effort to heat parts up with an
approximation to a forge...
Mark Rand
RTFM
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