"CraigT" wrote in message
...

"Cy Freeney" wrote in message
...

The strange thing is that after I pulled some of the loose caulk away
was
that a lot of the water coming out of the crack that then drained out of
1/8" vertical separation between the wall and the floor.

That indicates that you have drainage issues, which is probably the
reason why you have cracks in the wall to begin with. The soil around
the foundation is over saturated with water and the resulting
hydrostatic pressure is what is causing the problem.
No crack repair will hold if you don't do anything to solve the
drainage issue and relieve the hydrostatic pressure. Check your
gutters, extend the downspouts as far from the house as possible,
grade the terrain as to slope away from the foundation and keep
sprinkles, garden hoses and plants that need constant watering away
from the foundation walls. In other words, do your best to keep that
soil as dry as possible.

If that doesn't help, you might need to install a new drain tile.
Formerly you would have to dig out the foundation and install or
replace the drain tile by the footing. Nowadays, you can do it
internally, installing the drain tile along the internal perimeter of
basement walls, to collect the water and a sump pump to get it out and
away from the basement.

Once you relieve that pressure you will need to clean up (and dry up)
the wall crack and then patch it.Keep in mind that basement walls
move: they settle with the soil and they expand and contract with
temperature variations.So hard cement based compounds will not work,
and will be only a temporary solution. You will need a rubbery
compound that will follow the wall movements without crumbling or
cracking.

Here's some information on wall cracks -

http://www.basement-repair.com/found...ll-cracks.html

And on wall crack repair, with an explanation of all different methods
and options:

http://www.basement-repair.com/found...al-cracks.html

Hope that helps.

Thanks for the links.

I don't think the ground is super saturated or is their high hydrostatic
pressure. The area of the crack is only 2 feet under grade. The crack
seems to be a stress crack from settling (house is only 8 years old). The
water has been held back for the entire 4 years I've been the house by
nothing more that caulk. The leak is 20 inches to right of that window and
note the grade: http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Squisher/leak.jpg

Gutters are clean and twenty plus feet up in a 8 year old sub-division.
Not much chance for plugging unless done by varmints. All downspouts enter
irrigation pipe in which they and my sump pump drain into a pond that runs
behind all the houses. http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/Squisher/IMG_6629.JPG
Walkout basement floor is probably 6 feet higher than the high water mark
of the pond.

My sump pump only runs during times of very inclement weather.

Given that the crack is only 2 feet under grade I'd like to address the
crack from the outside, but all the flexible repair products seem to be
designed for use from the interior.






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Use some Quikrete Hydraulic Water Stop Cement to fix the crack and then seal
the area with roofing tar/foundation coating or similar...