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stryped[_3_] stryped[_3_] is offline
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Default Shop floor epoxy coatings

On Jul 23, 9:08*pm, "Greg O" wrote:
"Ecnerwal" wrote in message

...





In article ,
Rich Grise wrote:


On Thu, 23 Jul 2009 13:42:36 -0700, stryped wrote:


I am building a small 30x30 garage /shop. The concrete has just been
poured. is an epoxy floor coating a good idea and what is a good type
out there that wont be staine dby the small oil leaks in my car?


I'd ask the local home handyman store people (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.).
I'd also either get my car fixed or invest in a drip pan.


Epoxy floor coatings are a great idea for the guy selling them. For the
end user, they are expensive, slippery, and hard to repair (it's a shop,
and no floor coating is going to take all possible abuse, though a
"coating" of end grain wood about an inch and a half thick does pretty
well and is easily repaired.) A properly selected floor paint is none of
these things. All of them need 30 days cure, minimum, before use.


White will help with the light level in the shop.


Oil is going to stain pretty much anything if you are going to leave it
there from constant drips. Lay out a sheet of plastic and cover it with
oil-dri.


--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by


Not my experiance at all!
I epoxied my shop floor maybe 8 years ago. I love it, I wonder why I waited!
Sure it is a bit more slick than plain concrete, but not like you have to
worry about it. No oil stains, although I spilled some dirty laquer thinner
in a few spots and that stained the epoxy. Clean up is a breeze, wipe up any
bad messes and wash with a good degreaser and water. The shop looks
brighter, not so gloomy.
I am considering doing a re-coat, and as far as I know I will have to scuff
it with a sanding screen with a floor buffer, wash it good and re-coat.
As for waiting for use after aplying the epoxy, I think I waited 2-3 days
before rolling all my tools back in, and maybe a week before I drove the car
on it, after all it was a two part epoxy and the hardner does the work of
getting it to cure faster.
Greg O- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I have a 1990 mustang that I rarely drive and it has a small reaer
main seal drip. Alot of headach to replace that thing.

I am guesssing the floor will be slicker so I will have a harder time
using my ramps on the mustang to change the oil. Any ideas on that?

Remember too guys, I dont have a machine shop like most of you. I have
2 welders a sand blast cabinet, a jointer, table saw, planer, hand
tools and will park two vehicles in this thing. I am not sure if the
floor will get as much a workout as most of you.

I would like to rebuild my old 8n though!