In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Francis wrote:

As per my previous post I am having some problems with a failed
circulating pump (fully pumped system).
Problem now diagnosed as a failed pump.
So drain system.
Shut supply to expansion tank. Stopcock seized (will replace with 1/4
turn lever arm ball valve). Drop of oil round shaft and gently back &
forth, done.
3 drain points. All very inaccessible but working. Ok & done.
4th drain cock on a ground floor rad, the hose outlet is touching the
wall and the valve is touching a very nice parquet floor.
Gentle prying has let me fit a hose and unscrew the valve.
Valve does not release water although the rad is full as are 3 storeys
above, valve mechanism appears to be seized solid.
Have tried mole grips on the valve stem and gentle tap. Result, weep
from feed to rad.

I think tomorrow I will clear the immediate area, put down plenty of
polythene sheet, find suitable containers to gather and release the
pipe fitting to the rad valve.
When empty I will remake the fitting to the rad valve with a ballofix
type fitting tee'd off.

Any suggestions please, particularly to avoid the water spillage
expected.
Many thanks,
Francis.

As others have said, you should have isolation valves either side of the
pump. If so, you don't need to drain *anything* - just shut them and remove
the pump.

Even if you don't have isolation valves, you don't need to drain very much -
and certainly nothing that's *below* pump level. Where is the pump -
presumably in an airing cupboard on the first(?) floor?

It sounds like you've already turned off the feed to the fill & expansion
tank - which is a good start. [If the tap doesn't work, you can always tie
the ballvalve up.] The F&E tank will have a pipe going out of the bottom to
feed the system, and an expansion pipe looping over the top. Block both of
these off with corks. Every radiator in the house should have two valves -
one with a knob you can turn and the other (lockshield) which needs a
spanner to adjust. Turn off *all* of the valves, noting how many turns each
lockshield valve takes, so that you can restore them to the same position.
This will keep all the radiators full of water, and avoid any need to drain
them.

Now, if you break a joint near the pump you will get very little water
coming out - only that contained by the immediate pipework. When it stops
running, you can remove the pump. While you're at it, fit islation valves to
make it easier next time.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!