"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...

If you heat it enough to silver-braze, it will wind up dead-soft
annealed.
If that isn't OK, then you might consider that the shear strength of
industrial-grade epoxies run upwards of 5,000 psi. It might do the job.

--
Ed Huntress

Now, there's an idea. Any particular product?

No specifics, because I'm not up on the latest.

But here are a few general points. You probably can get away with a
room-temperature-cure product (which generally means amine-type hardeners),
because your application probably doesn't justify the complication of A-B
cures at two different elevated temperatures. I always try to ask an expert,
like someone at 3M, before committing to something like this. You'll want to
make clear to them all the details of your application -- metals being
joined, etc. You need shear strength but not much peel/cleavage strength. To
get the latter you generally sacrifice the former, so a general-purpose
epoxy, which usually is oriented toward a compromise, is not your best
choice. And you want to be wary of anything that has a fast cure time. They
may have that issue solved today, but any cure with epoxy that takes less
than 24 hours usually compromises performance.

Assuming both parts are steel, you may want more than extreme cleanliness.
You may want to use the scratch-in method for getting the best bond.

Anyway, I'd try epoxy first, because if it fails, no harm is done to the
parts.


I could reinforce it a bit with a custom key that is only 0.025" high into
the pulley.

I'd be wary of that because it could interfere with getting a good
scratch-in coating on the parts. But whatever works.

--
Ed Huntress