On Jul 21, 8:24*pm, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
On Jul 21, 4:34*pm, Robatoy wrote:





On Jul 21, 6:53*pm, "Leon" wrote:

"-MIKE-" wrote in message

...

WW wrote:
As I mentioned in earlier post about moistening wood before gluing. All
of you were correct in replies. I took the items to a friend to
thickness sand. He dropped one and it fell apart at the glue joints. So
much for my bright idea. I learn a lot from this group, thanks. Warren

I'm not sure where you came up with the idea in the first place. Maybe
it was planted in your head by hearing a correct idea and it got garbled
up in the memory banks, as often happens to me.

In any case, I could see someone offering the advise to wet the gluing
surfaces of the wood, then "let dry" before applying glue. This would
act to open up the pores a bit and possibly help the wood soak up the
glue.

I'm not saying it's a correct theory or practice... just saying I could
believe someone might offer that advice.

Yeah the opening the pores up thing IMHO does not hold water either. *You
get a better bond on wood that is shiney smooth and no open grain. *Take
maple for example. *I don't believe that the typical wood glue needs a
"tooth" to bond well. *Typically the more glue there is in a joint, in
excess, the more likely it is to fail. *There is really no such thing as
glue starvation in a joint unless there is not enough glue to cover the
surfaves in the first place. *Squeezing the heck out of a joint with clamps
is not a problem providing there is glue on all surfaces of the joint, and
those surfaces touch each outher, regardless of how thin the lglue line is.

Would that include case-hardened maple direct from a jointer? Because
at a door manufacturing company that I frequent, they scuff and
moisten the edges before making the panels for the raised panels. They
do let them dry throughly before gluing. They want tooth.

But do they use PVA or some other kind of glue that benefits from
tooth?

Luigi

Resorcinol of course. *S*