On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 22:11:38 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


wrote:

On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 17:54:04 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


"Steve W." wrote:

Pete C. wrote:
No grinding or anything, just continual clutch no-release problems.
Clutch replaced once, coaxial slave cylinder replaced another time, MCs
replaced like four times. Never had a problem with clutch slip, only
failure to release.

Now that I have a new truck, I'm getting ready to pull the clutch on the
old one myself and see if I can fix it for good. This truck also ate
rear axle seals until I got into it. Axles seals replaced under warranty
several times, when they went again out of warranty I replaced them
myself and haven't had a problem since (195k+ now).

Step down and no release?

Yep, makes it kinds difficult to shift. Bit of a problem when you need
to stop as well.

If you step down a second time does it release
then?

Nope, pump it a half dozen times and you might get it to release enough
to shift with a clunk. Doesn't do it all the time either, can be working
just fine then start acting up.

I have no good way to monitor it for testing, but I suspect the MC
reservoir valve isn't sealing well allowing some of the stroke output to
simply go back to the reservoir.

I expect I could fabricate a better MC setup and add a bit more
displacement as well since I've always felt it bordered on not enough
displacement.

How close is the fluid line to a manifold?

Not particularly close, probably 6" from the manifold, 3" from the pipe
heading down to where it crosses under the clutch bellhousing.

How old is the fluid?

A month or so since I last replaced the MC and flushed a good pint
through and out the coaxial slave cylinder breather.

Sure
sounds like vapour fade due to inferior fluid or overheated lines.

Sounds like it, and some of the cases of it acting up have been after
it's had some time to heat up, but other have been acting up from cold.

I suppose I could find some insulating wrap and wrap the line. Not sure
on inferior fluid, it just uses DOT3 brake fluid. The last couple pints
have just been generic DOT3, is there a particular brand I should look
for?
DON"T use heat wrap - use a properly positioned heat sheild and you
should be using DOT4 fluid, not DOT3.. The best heat sheild is a
stainless steel sheet midway between the heat source and the tube - or
half of a 2" stainless steel tube mounted so it semi-surrounds the
tubeing, about 1" from the tubing.. Three inches from the crossover
without a heat sheild is TOO CLOSE.
Might get by with DOT4 or DOT5 fluid, but you are still pushing it.