On Jul 15, 2:12*pm, Joe wrote:
On Jul 14, 1:33*pm, "desgnr" wrote:

I have a laundry tub that i want to replace the Drain pipe but it goes into
a lead drain in the concrete floor.
How do i remove & install a new one without melting or damageing the lead ?

--
Dell Inspiron
Pentium dual-core 2.2 GHz
2 GB DDR2 SDRAM
Windows Vista Home Premium SP1

As noted above, don't even think about messing with leaded
connections. Call a pro, preferably someone with a few decades of
experoence.

Joe

It was actually pretty cool watching him work. Oakum, lead and big mo-
fo torch. I just found this...fun reading and explains why mere
mortals shouldn't be messing with lead joints.

Stolen without permission from:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/plumbin...int-15120.html

"i need help on the steps to pouring a lead joint...i have to pour a
lead joint for a plumbing test for a license"

Then you need a oldtime plumber that cut his teeth on lead and oakum
joints. Hey! That would be me! Let me explain about lead and oakum
joints. I'm going to assume that you have a basic knowledge of the
tools needed to pour and caulk a joint. A short course: It's not the
lead that makes the joint water tight. It's okum, a hemp like material
that swells up when water hits it. The lead is just to make sure the
okum is packed in tight enough to seal. You should also know what
special tools are needed to yarn and pour a joint from scratch. A lead
ladle and a gas torch hot enough to melt lead in it. Then you need
lead and okum. Next you will need a yarning iron to push the okum down
in the joint. A packing iron to pack the okum down tight. If the joint
is a horizontal one you will need a well oiled running rope to hold
the lead in the joint untill it cools. And last you will need inside
and outside caulking irons plus a ball peen hammer.
Take a length of oakum and run it around the inside of the bell/hub
and tamp it down with a yarning iron. Do this untill the oakum is
almost to the top. Now take the packing iron and ball-peen hammer and
pack the oakum tightly in the bell. You should be left with a 3/8 to
1/2" of space for the lead.
Too much oakum? Take some out and repack it.
Now melt lead into the ladle and pour the joint to the top of the bell
in one pour. Let the lead cool and set up. Now take the inside
caulking iron, (the one with the bevel looking out) and caulk the
inside of the pipe using enough strength to mark the lead well, but
not strong enough to crack the cast iron bell. Do the same with a
outside iron, (the one with the bevel looking in.) and you've just
poured and caulked a lead joint. (And here you thought the only
definition of a joint was one you rolled and smoked, LOL.) Good luck
on your test, Tom