"Pounds on Wood" wrote in message
...
Unless I'm misunderstanding your use of the peg board, it seems as though
you were concerned about precise spacing of your dog holes. Why?

The reason you need accurate dog hole spacing is that there are a lot of
bench jigs that use two of the dog holes to hold the jig in place (I'm
thinking mainly of bench stops). So, if you have a stop that has 3/4" dowel
pegs on 12" centers and your dog holes are 11 7/8" or 12 1/8" apart, instead
of 12" then you're screwed. It might seem that you could just build the jig
to your particular bench, but if you use a full grid of dog holes then you
will likely only be able to use the jig on the two specific holes you used
to set up the jig - that's pretty limiting.

Aside from the practical reasons I've mentioned here, why not be accurate?
It isn't that hard at all, and I think Silvan came up with a reasonably good
way to get it pretty good. Seems silly to forgo maybe 20-30 minutes extra
effort which will get you a better laid-out doghole grid for no good reason.


Regarding drilling, this comes up on the rec pretty often. How to drill
holes after the benchtop is complete? I used my benchtop drill press. I
turned the head stock around on the column, so that it was away from the
table and base, and slipped it down the column to the height appropriate
for
my forstner bit. Not all DP's will do this, but many will. Then I
positioned the bit over the -soon to be a hole- location, clamped the DP
base to the table with cauls, and drilled away. Worked perfectly.

That's not a bad idea, but it seems pretty laborious (the bench I'm making
now, modeled after Sam Allen's joiners bench has 40+ dog holes in the top).
I'm using a right-angle drill guide and it works great and doesn't weigh 75
lbs.

Mike