On Jun 20, 7:59*am, Bored Borg
wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):

Hello,

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Adam

I'm Xposting this to rec.woodworking for you 'cos there's some clever blokes
on there who might be able to come at this from a different direction and
sort you out properly

Meanwhile

I just took a look at the drawings onhttp://www.beesource.com/files/10frwbci.pdf

As it stands there's NO way to cut the joints with a router because the cuts *
would be parallelogram shaped. The cuts would have to be cut parallel with
each other but at an angle relative to the board edge

You _can_ do it by hand (well, I couldn't)
or
you can have one of the pairs of sides square to the other a
and running *"normally square" - as in like a standard box joint - on the
square-cornered sides.

Check out

http://www.stots.com/tm.htm

reviewhttp://www.woodshopdemos.com/prd-stot.htm

This guy sells a jig for you to make your own dovetail/box jigs of any size
and custom built for any particular weird project you have on hand, so if
you're willing to lose the leaning-in on two of the walls, you could joint it
fairly easily - even dovetail it - with this gizmo which is around 40 usd

He has some nice examples of angled dovetails. Watch the on-site video for a
step by step account.

I've probably overlooked something obvious, so I'm throwing this one out to
the floor for sage counsel.

Enjoy!

Waste of time to even cut box joints when rabbetted boxes are
sufficiently strong with modern glues and nails an in my collection of
hive furniture appear less prone to rot.