Tim S coughed up some electrons that declared:

coughed up some electrons that declared:

I have take out double glazing beads using two fairly used scrapers.
The first one is tapped into the bead to window frame joint
(perpendicular to window). Tap the second one along side the first.
Then use a screw driver between the two scrapers to force them apart
and start to remove the bead. Once the bead starts to move it is then
easy to remove completely. Doing it this way does not damage the
beading. The secret is to use well worn scrapers say about 50mm wide.
If you haven't got a worn scraper file down a scraper to give it a
tapered leading edge.
Regards

Hi

I can now confirm this method, with slight modifications, due to the type
of beading I have:

* This is only for internally glazed, non security taped PVC double glazed
windows *

1) Putty knife (short edges, solid blade)

2) Insert short flat knife edge into join betwixt bead and frame exactly
at one end

3) Hit back of blade with nylon mallet until it pops into the joint. Blade
will tend to slide backwards due to slopes and angle of hit. This may be
resisted with a firm grip on the knife.

4) Lever blade sideways - bead may come apart 2-3mm.

5a) Insert 1-2" scraper (blade rigidity unimportant) into open joint

5b) If bead refused to stay apart, with some fiddling, attempt to slide
(or tap) a *short* scraper in along the face of the knife into the same
part of the joint

6) Take larger sized (6mm) flat blade screwdriver, inset fully between
both blades and twist. Bead *will* now pop open at the position.

7) Change to 2 scrapes (easier to hold). Slide along joint to a less
opened section, screwdriver and twist. Working along the joint, repeat
until bead fully removed.

------

Risks

Risk of superficial damage to bead or frame finish, in steps 3,4 and 5b

Damage appears to be limited to the mating faces of bead and frame so
generally not visible.

In particular, this was tried on a wood finish PVC, where the finish layer
may chip off revealing dark brown plastic.

In fact, no blade damage was visible after re-assembly and blade damage on
a dis-assembled frame was very slight.

-----

Refitting:

My original use of a plastic block to use as a drift was incorrect.

The best way (on my type of bead) was simply to hit it hard, starting at
one end with a small rubber faced mallet. This produced a very clean and
controlled assembly.

-----

Overall - for a first fitting attempt, in the end it turned out quite
well. Two short beads sustained minor visible finish chips (15 x 2mm and a
shorter bit). These are now fitted to the tramson so are comparitively
un-noticeable. I may order replacements for a pukka perfect job, but I
don't think anyone will really notice.

I expect no problems whatsoever with the next window. Like most things,
once you get the feel, it's quite straightforward. Unforuntately, I had to
actually buy a window in order to practise!

Wiki time methinks.

Now, the root cause of all this was a lack of understanding of heeling and
tied
^^ toeing
in the DG unit in the first place. And a lack of bridge packers and
glass packers.

I'll follow up with a useful website in a minute!

Cheers

Tim