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Default Leigh D4 dovetail jig driving me nuts

I'm not sure how much this matters, if at all, but I've watched the demo
at many shows before I bought mine, and I remember the presenter saying
that you need to push straight down on each finger as it is tightened.
I don't remember if he said just what the significance of that act was,
but I've always done it that way and have not had these type of
problems. The guy who I bought mine from is Mark Hensley and he runs a
shop and a school at his home in Florida. Maybe try sending him your
pictures at .. .. .. .. .. .. and ask him for
a response. If anyone is qualified to give an opinion, it would be
Mark. I think he knows that jig better than the engineers who designed it.

Mark & Juanita wrote:
Mark & Juanita wrote:

Just added a picture at abpww illustrating the problem.


I've had this jig for a good 4 or so years and have primarily used it
for
1/2 blind dovetails for drawers. Every time I use it, I spend a great
deal of time getting it set up and in the past have finally "settled" for
as
good as I can get. I decided not to settle this time and have spent a
great deal of time trying to get the jig to provide me with gap-free 1/2
blind joints. I get the part about adjustment up and down loosening or
tightening the joint. The problems I am having are getting gaps on the
*side* of some of the joints, and the bottom gaps when adjusting tightness
not being even across the width of the board (only 3 1/4") despite the
fact that the fingers are flat on the pin board and the spacer board and
the
tail board is uniform across the width of the spacer board. I've tried
recentering the router bit (one of the reasons I bought template bases for
my Bosch laminate trim router was so I could easily center the bushing),
I've tried swapping jig fingers (now I've got a bit of springiness when
tightening the finger jig because of having to remove the ends). I've
tried rotating the router 180 degrees to rout the pins after routing the
pins. Nothing seems to be helping much.

Next thought is lapping the router baseplate dead flat. I've been
trying
to hold it flat to the center, but am getting rocking. Would a 5 mil rock
cause significant problems?

Any help would be appreciated. As a pre-emptive, the answer, "just chop
them by hand" is not an answer I'm seeking -- I'm really trying to figure
out why this machine is not working as advertised.