Mark wrote:
On Sun, 17 May 2009 12:33:58 +0100, Dave Osborne
wrote:

Mike Barnes wrote:

He pasted one piece on each side, roughly overlapped. Then he cut down the
middle of the corner from top to bottom with a new blade. He removed the
offcuts (which of course involved peeling back one side of the job).
Then he smoothed it all down. Result: a perfect butt join, *completely*
invisible. Even dragging a fingernail lightly across where the join is,
it's undetectable.

Takes a bit of practice, though, I'd think. My guess is that you have to
angle the blade slightly (away from the exposed edge) to get the sides
to join perfectly on a curved surface.

I've seen this trick done as a matter of course on straight drops as
well as corners. Usually in high-class offices with Muraspec (i.e.
top-quality) wallpaper. Result: completely seamless wall end-to-end. The
trick usually involves a straight edge and a Stanley knife. The straight
edge is often only a metre or so long and they have a knack of smoothly
alternating between pulling the Stanley knife and the straight edge down
the wall.

I tried it at home once and the knife just dragged the edge of the paper
to buggery. So, there's definitely a knack to it and it probably works
better on some types of paper than others.

You need a /very/ sharp blade for this, otherwise it will tear. It's
best if the paper is not too wet.


Yup. I do aircraft models, and both the film we use to cover them, and,
as I discovered, wet wallpaper, needs a fresh blade that goes off after
only a few cuts..

I remember th puzzled look on the face of the man in the model shop when
I pointed to a box of blades and said 'how much?' ' its' £x a packet' -
'er no. How much for the WHOLE BOX of packets..' :-)

I run about 3-4 knives. When its paper or film slitting time, I take the
naffest and put a shiny new blade in. And rotate them. That way there is
always one with a fresh blade and some less good ones for wood cutting.


To the OP: I'd paint that bit ;-)