On May 15, 4:49*pm, mike wrote:


Uh, you misunderstood what I'm talking about. *I can make adjustments
to my cut WHEN USING THE SAW in fractions of a degree by placing
folded paper between the molding and the saw guide where appropriate.

Ah, right, that wasn't clear.

One major advantage of a coped joint is that you only have to use
precision on one piece, the other is just a straight cut.

Another major advantage of a coped joint is that it is not very
sensitive to the corner's angle. The coped piece is backcut and gives
a fair degree of flexibility - probably on the order of a couple or
three degrees. It actually makes it easier to achieve a tight meeting
between the two pieces.

One of the fallacies of using a miter saw is that the smooth face of
the cut provides a better fit. It doesn't matter in a coped joint.
The back of a coped piece looks like a beaver went at it, but the face
only shows a tight line between the two pieces that is not affected
nearly as much by swings in temperature and humidity as a mitered
corner. Old time woodworkers wouldn't waste time on getting precise
fits on things that were hidden that didn't affect longevity or
function.

R